Elevate 101: Caring for Your Clothes

We live in a society that views clothing, shoes and accessories as being disposable. A missing button or other simple embellishment is reason enough for a garment death sentence. God forbid there's a stain that a Shout wipe can't remove or a tear on a seam or scuffs on your leather. I'm guilty of it, too, I admit. The first time I scuff a new leather handbag or shoe, it ceases to be my favorite and might end up at the back of my closet for many months before I replace it with one that is remarkably similar yet blemish-free. Once a white shirt is not as bright as the day I bought it, my inclination is to buy a new one rather than bleach the old one.

Part of this trend has to do with the quality of clothing these days. They aren't designed to last- they're mass produced and often poorly made (hence the small price tag). When you only spent $15 on a dress, and after four or five wears, it's faded, stretched out and maybe has a hole or two, you're probably not that upset. After all, it only cost $15. Additionally, with products like Dryel, Shout wipes, Tide To-Go pens, etc., it's easy to think that if you can't make it look good at home on your own, then it probably should be tossed.

Today I want to focus on how to care for your garments, specifically the ones that are of a better quality. In 2013, the "elevate" theme extends to shopping, meaning we are going to try to make better, smarter purchases of higher quality pieces. It also extends to garment care. No longer are we putting all of our dry-clean only garments in the dryer with a Dryel sheet. No longer are we treating difficult spots with Tide To-Go pens only. No longer are we going outside without treating our leather and suede properly.

You know from my Elevate 101 post last week that the first step is to find a quality dry cleaner, tailor and cobbler. The next step is to actually use those professionals. The final step is to actually do the things at home that will help your garments look good in between their visits to those professionals.

1.) Shave your sweaters. Don't worry about investing in a fancy sweater shaver, a disposable Bic razor will work just fine. Lay your sweaters out on a flat, well-lit surface. See all those pills? Gently run the razor over the garment and shave off the pills. In a few minutes, your sweaters will look brand new. Do this every time you wash them. Be careful not to press too hard or you could snag the yarn and put a hole in the sweater.

Cashmere and Bic- an unlikely pairing. 

2.) Remove stains before laundering. After a garment goes through the washer & dryer, that stain is there for good. Try these basic stain removal tips:

-- For oil and grease based stains like salad dressing, hand lotions, etc., lay the garment on a flat surface. Cover the stain with baby powder and let it sit for a few minutes. Lay a washcloth or other fabric on top. Using the steam setting on your iron, blast the covered spot with steam for about 15-30 seconds. Allow to cool, then remove the washcloth and brush off all the baby powder. Repeat this process as needed until the stain is removed. Corn starch works as well, but doesn't smell as nice as baby powder.

-- For blood, first try spitting on it (if it is your own blood). I know this sounds gross, but there's some kind of magical connection that allows your own saliva to remove your own blood from fabric. If it is not your own blood, start with COLD water and blot the spot, which will lift the stain from the fibers. If the fabric is silk, be sure to dry the fabric immediately, or you could end up with a water mark where the blood stain used to be. (P.S. If you used the saliva method, I hope it goes without saying that you should also follow up with a quick wash.)

-- For general staining such as ring-around-the-collar, self-tanner or make-up stains, use a small amount of clarifying shampoo. Simply take a wet washcloth and a small amount of the shampoo. Using a circular motion, gently scrub until the stain is removed. Be sure to rinse the area so that there is no shampoo remaining or it can cause yellowing over time.

-- Another quick and easy tip for make-up removal is to use a piece of scotch tape. Place the piece on the stain and simply lift it back off. Repeat until the stain is gone. This works best for powder residue including eye shadow and blush.

While there are lots of methods on the internet for removing ink, red wine and other more stubborn stains, my advice is to take those to a professional. Dry cleaners know the best cleaning method not only for each specific type of stain, but also for each specific type of fabric. Many of the methods described online will only work with sturdy synthetic fabrics such as polyester. Many more delicate fabrics- including natural ones- can't always hold up to the stain removal method.

3.) Save the extra thread, buttons, notions and closures that come with your garments. I have a little box that I toss them all into. When I buy a new garment, the extra button or thread goes right into that box. Then, if I never lose a button or have a small tear to repair, I have the exact replacement right at my fingertips. Everyone, and I do mean everyone should learn the basic skill of sewing on a button. It's not rocket science and hardly takes any practice at all to master the skill. Keep your needles in the same box as the extra buttons and you'll never have to go looking for either. Learning to do simple repairs on your own will not only keep your garments looking good, it will save time and money because you will have fewer trips to the tailor and/or dry cleaner.

4.) Keep your shoes in their original boxes, or on shoe racks. Boots should be stored with boot shapers to keep them upright. Don't forget to treat the leather to prevent drying and cracking. The same goes for your handbags. You don't want to pull out a favorite bag after a year only to find that it's in worse condition than when you put it there.

Not all my shoes are still in the original boxes, but quite a few are and they stay in great shape that way! 

5.) Finally, always remember to store your clothes properly or you risk shortening their lifespan. Crowded closets are not good for any clothes, so rotate your clothes in and out seasonally. Keep your off-season clothes in a cool, dry place, free from pesky critters like moths and mice. Breathable storage bins, cedar closets, and garment bags are all great storage methods that will keep your clothes protected. Remember to always fold your sweaters and knit garments; never hang them.

My sweaters never touch a coat hanger! 

I hope this post helps you understand how best to care for your garments and shoes. If you have any proven methods of garment care, feel free to share in the comments.

Elevate 101: 3 Simple Steps to Upgrade Your Existing Wardrobe

As part of my "Elevate 101" series, today I'm going to give you a few simple tips to help spruce up the pieces already in your wardrobe. Hopefully these basic steps will bring some of the classic, timeless pieces you already own up to a new level.

Step 1: Find a good dry cleaner
Step 2: Find a good tailor/seamstress
Step 3: Find a good cobbler

I know that dry cleaning, tailoring and shoe repair can all be quite costly, especially if you have a lot of it. However, you don't have to send pieces to them on a weekly or even monthly basis if that's not suitable to your lifestyle.

As for dry cleaners, even if you're the type to use the Dryel sheets or even worse, just a dryer sheet in with your dry-clean-only garments, you never know when you're going to need the services of a true cleaning professional. I've always been fortunate enough to have truly excellent dry cleaners within 30 minutes drive of any place I've ever lived. It's not often that I use them, but when I do, it's great to know that my clothes are in good hands. I believe in finding a well-established dry cleaner with a solid reputation and a strong background in textiles. It's not just about removing spots, it's knowing how different fabrics respond to different chemicals or even water and steam. A good dry cleaner will know the best way to clean your clothes that also maintains them for true longevity. A good dry cleaner will not only be able to remove tricky spots from even trickier fabrics, they will also be able to complete small repairs and sometimes even offer tailoring or alterations services within their premises. Which brings me to #2:

A good tailor or seamstress is truly invaluable. Believe it or not, it's the simplest garments in your closet that will need the most tailoring. A suit that doesn't fit properly will not do you any favors in the job interview or the board meeting. Conversely, a well- tailored LBD (Little Black Dress) can be taken from average to astounding purely due to the nips of tucks of a skilled seamstress or tailor. Do you ever pass over garments in your closet because you think "these pants are just a little too loose in the waist," or "the sleeves on the jacket fall too far down on my wrist," or maybe "this skirt would be so much more flattering if it were two inches shorter." We all do, or worse yet, we don't pass on those pieces and we wear them despite the fact that they are slightly ill-fitting and therefore not nearly as flattering as they could be. Do yourself a favor and have all of those pieces tailored. It may be a bit of an investment, so do it seasonally to cut down on the cost a bit. Make sure the pieces in your closet truly fit your body in the most flattering way and you'll get a LOT more wear out of all of them.

I know the standard objection to tailoring (aside from cost) is that your weight is going to change. Either you plan to lose weight, so you figure why not wait until you hit your goal? Or you are afraid that once you have all those pants and skirts and dresses taken in, if you gain a few pounds, they won't fit at all. I think that both of these reasons are utter bologna. First, in regards to losing weight, that is a gradual process and before it's time for all new clothes that are three sizes smaller than your current wardrobe, tailoring will keep your current pieces from looking too tent-like on your shrinking body. Also, hem length is a simple adjustment to pants, skirts and dresses and has nothing to do with your weight loss. And as for gaining weight, I think that well-tailored pieces are a good gauge for keeping on track where fitness and healthy eating are concerned. We all binge a little around the holidays or birthdays, so when those pants start to feel a little uncomfortably snug, it's time to make some lifestyle adjustments to get back on track and feeling great in your clothes.

Ok, moving on to #3- a good cobbler. This is definitely a dying art, so it can be tricky to find them at all, but when you do, it's likely they've been in business for decades and really know what they're doing. A cobbler will repair your shoes, handbags, belts and all sort of other things. Repairs to shoes often include re-soling, repairing closures, elastics, buckles, etc, shining, replacing laces, grommets, replacing heel caps, fixing broken straps, and countless other repairs and enhancements. If you have any kind of foot issue, a good cobbler can help keep your shoes functioning the best for you. They are also great at repairing handbags, and sprucing up any of your leather goods. Since most offer dye services as well, you can even have fabric shoes touched up if they fade or scuff.

If you're with me in regards to "elevating" your wardrobe, you'll be purchasing higher quality investment pieces that you plan to have for a long time. A good dry cleaner, tailor and cobbler will all be essential to keeping those investment pieces looking and feeling top notch.

Do you already have garment and accessory care professionals that you use? How often do you go to them? Do you find it's worthwhile to go? Leave a comment!

Elevate 101: What to Own

If you recall from this post, my new mantra for 2013 (and beyond) is to "elevate." This means improving the overall quality of everything in my life. Perhaps it might only be a small improvement, but my intent is to incorporate this idea into all areas of my life, including my fashion and style choices.

For any of you who may want to try to "elevate" along with me, but who don't know quite where to begin, I've decided to put together my own personal "Top Ten" list of what every woman should own. This is far from everything needed in a wardrobe, but it includes the building blocks of great outfits that are versatile and timeless. Let's begin!

10 Wardrobe Must-Haves by rtboo featuring a vneck sweater

1.) The right bra: It all starts with undergarments. We've all heard the statistics about how so many women wear the wrong size bra. Go to a specialist and get properly fitted. Find the right style for your body and your lifestyle. Buy that bra in the correct size and in black, nude and a color. Without the correct bra, your clothing will never look as good as it can. My personal favorite bra (that took years to find) is the Victoria's Secret "Body by Victoria" Demi-cup bra. I own six total- two nude (one plain, one lace), one black, one grey, one red and one bright fuchsia. I hope this bra style is around for many years because it is my favorite bra I've ever worn. I literally wear it every day. (And my boobs look great!)

2.) Nude undergarments: It doesn't stop with the bra. In addition to the right bra, it's essential to have an arsenal of nude undergarments for pretty much every occasion. This includes: a full slip, a half slip, panties, thong, shapers such as Spanx and various bras. For any slightly sheer garment and especially when wearing white, nude is the only appropriate color undergarment. Do you know how many people I've encountered over the years who still think that the right color undergarment for white clothes is white? WRONG!!! You need nude undies in as close in color to your actual skin tone as possible. Don't believe me? Put on a white shirt with a white bra, then a nude bra. Tell me which one you can see through the shirt. I'm not wrong on this one. I mentioned above that you need the right bra and that's true for everyday. However, there will be plenty of occasions where your every day bra is not appropriate. A low-cut formal gown or a strapless dress may require something different. Buy these specialty bras in nude as well. It makes them far more versatile.

3.) Pencil skirt: Now that you have all the right unders, you can begin to build upon them. Start with a pencil skirt. It's classic, universally flattering and timeless. Start with a basic black one and expand from there. Invest in a high quality one and have it tailored to fit you perfectly. (Don't forget to wear the right unders to the tailor, too. It makes a difference.) If you are not the "skirt" type (or a man), then this item can be replaced with a great pair of dress pants. Again, start with black and build from there. Find a pair that is classic, flattering and timeless.

4.) Fitted woven shirt: Choose a color and style that suits you- your body, your personality and your lifestyle.  This type of shirt can be paired with your perfect pencil skirt for a great office-ready look. It can layer over a cami with jeans for a more casual weekend look. It can layer under a blazer or sweater for the cooler months and be worn on its own in the summer. Are you picking up what I'm putting down? This piece is classic, timeless and versatile. It can (and should) be worn year round.

5.) The right jeans: I will not lie to you- the right jeans are hard to find. You will try on dozens and dozens of jeans before you find the perfect pair. You will visit countless shops and boutiques. You will find countless washes, cuts, lengths and styles before you find what works best for you. Persevere. And when you find the right ones, buy them in every color, length and wash that suits your lifestyle. Buy them short to wear with flats, buy them long to wear with heels. Buy them in a light wash for casual weekends and a dark wash for a night on the town.

6.) Cashmere sweater(s): Cashmere is better than all other wools and textiles for a couple of reasons. It is lightweight making it ideal for layering and it is remarkably warm with great insulating capabilities. Also, have you every touched cashmere? You will never wear any other kind of wool again once you've felt cashmere against your skin. Typically, cashmere sweaters come in fairly standard, classic silhouettes and styles. Buy a couple in neutral colors- a black cardigan, a beige pullover, etc.

7.) The perfect LBD: I recommend an LBD in either a brushed cotton sateen or a matte dupioni silk. Either of these fabrics will be comfortable to wear in any season because as natural fibers, they will breathe well and fit beautifully. The right LBD can be worn on a nice dinner out, to a wedding, to a company function, to a cocktail party, to basically anything vaguely formal. Have it tailored. Little nips and tucks make all the difference and can bring your look from basic to show-stopping with minimal effort on your part.

8.) Nude shoes: I love shoes and own heels in nearly every color of the rainbow. But if you're not like me and you only pull out heels for special occasions, then make sure they're a classic nude pair. Even a basic pump in a nude patent leather can easily work with your LBD, a pair of jeans, your pencil skirt or  a business suit. Versatility is best demonstrated by a timeless pair of simple nude heels. 

9.) Overcoats for all seasons: A fall trench, a spring jacket and a winter overcoat are the three most essential coats you need to own. Just like everything else in this list, classic, timeless, flattering styles are what to look for. Start with a beige trench, a blush spring jacket and a black wool overcoat. Invest in quality garments and care for them properly; they'll last decades.

10.) Neutral bags- I recommend one large and one small. The small bag should be slightly more formal and therefore can be used with your LDB for a more fancy event. Carry the small one within the large one and you'll always have a bag that works, no matter your outfit. For the large bag, invest in something leather that is timeless and well-made. The better the craftsmanship, the longer it will last. Treat the leather to protect it from the elements and from drying out and it will last a long time.

So there you have it- my top ten must-have wardrobe items for every woman. With these basic pieces, you can incorporate a handful of other pieces and always look fresh and stylish. A trendy blouse paired with your pencil skirt or favorite jeans will breathe new life into them and make them look current, even if they are very traditional and classic. I'm sure you noticed that the polyvore set at the top and the descriptions at each point all seem very basic and neutral, but that's purely for demonstrative purposes. In every one of these items, you should (and must!) incorporate your own style and point of view. If your woven shirt needs to have ruffles, then so be it! If your winter overcoat is a bright tartan, great! Let your personality shine through these items and you can't go wrong.

Leave a comment and tell me what you think of this list. Do you agree? Disagree? Is there something I left out that you would have included or something on the list that you think is ridiculous? Tell me what you think! And don't forget to check back soon for my next installment of "Elevate 101!"